15 DEC - 4:30AM - AWAKE WITH A BUMP

The bumpy train ride left most of the team with only fitful bouts of sleep. Craig had hinted the night before that the train might be running early and get in at 5:30, so by 5:20 we were all packed and ready. Then a guard came round and let us know that in fact, the train was running late, and we wouldn't get in for another hour. At this point, most people tried to get back to sleep.

Breakfast was water and biscuits we had bought the night before. An attendant did serve coffee on the train, and Cathy, having braved it, said it was worse than a cup of instant international roast that had had the lid left off for two weeks.